Luang Prabang
In this miracle of serenity that is a UNESCO world heritage site, there is a bamboo bridge that connects to the other side of the Nam Khan river, shortly before it meets the Mekong. A rush of water came down during my stay and washed the bridge away, emphasizing the impermanence that is inherent to the Laotian Buddhist faith. Little is known of this unique version of the Theravada tradition that favors the wandering monk over the literary scholar, with occasional pilgrimages into the forest with devotees restricted to silence and meditation with only a white umbrella for shelter.
I journeyed all the way to Luang Prabang to forgive someone. Here in this restful place one can hike to sulfurous pools, drink in one spectacular wat after another, and enjoy wild cuisine that rivals that of neighboring Thailand and Vietnam, redolent of lemongrass, kaffir lime, monkey-ear mushrooms, and river algae. Above all, one is humbled by the incredible discipline of the young novices who, fleeing from their parents’ poverty in other parts of Laos, come to this haven for learning, shelter, devotion, and the prospects of a better life in this world.
Most travelers are hesitant to make contact with the novices, but if you earn their trust, you can develop a friendship or two. I was privileged to meet Dao (whose name means “Star”), the subject of an interview by The Washington Post when Obama came to town as the first U.S. president to ever visit the country. Each day we would get together and join his colleagues for chanting in the early evening, as I soaked in the atmosphere of their extraordinary dedication within the confines of the temple, with its mosaics, frescos, and stenciled patterns of gold and silver all around.
Unknown to him, Dao taught me that if you are enlightened you can cross the bridge of forgiveness without actually ever forgiving. You look back, and realize the bridge is gone and there is no action to take. All dissolves, all flows in endless swirls like the elegant saffron robes of the sacred novices who, in their ultimate wisdom, empower us to transcend ourselves.
Here’s my photo essay on Luang Prabang.
